When discussing the elusive local tea cultivar "The Twenty-Eighth" 二八仔, one cannot overlook its two famous siblings—"Jin Xuan" 金萱 and "Cui Yu" 翠玉.
In 1945, following the end of Japanese colonial rule, Wu Zhen-Duo 吳振鐸, the first director of Taiwan's Tea and Beverage Crops Research and Extension Station (TBRS) after its reformation, set out to identify suitable tea cultivars for local cultivation. He selected promising strains from over 5,000 seed-grown plants left by its predecessor, the Tea Experiment Station of the Taiwan Governor-General's Office of Japan 台灣總督府殖產局附屬製茶試驗場. Among them, three standout strains—numbered #2027, #2028, and #2029—were distributed to farmers for field trials. These cultivars later became affectionately known among tea farmers as "Ji-Tshit-A" (二七仔, "The Twenty-Seventh"), "Ji-Peh-A" (二八仔, "The Twenty-Eighth"), and "Ji-Kiu-A" (二九仔, "The Twenty-Ninth").
All three cultivars shared a common parent—"Ying Zhi Hong Xin" 硬枝紅心.
he Twenty-Seventh was the sole offspring of Ying Zhi Hong Xin and the cultivar Tai-Nong No. 8 臺農八號, while the Twenty-Eighth and Twenty-Ninth were full siblings, both were crossbred from Ying Zhi Hong Xin and Tai-Nong No. 80 臺農八十號. Though they differed in appearance and flavor, all three cultivars shared the same ancestral roots.
By 1982, after years of observation and refinement in cultivation, all three cultivars had demonstrated exceptional qualities and were nominated for inclusion in the "Taiwan Tea Series" 臺茶系列. However, in the final selection stage, the judges from the TBRS decided to accept only two of the three, ultimately eliminating the Twenty-Eighth due to its genetic and characteristic similarities to the Twenty-Ninth. The two selected cultivars were the Twenty-Seventh, officially designated as Taiwan Tea No. 12 臺茶十二號 with the varietal name "Jin Xuan" 金萱, and the Twenty-Ninth, which became Taiwan Tea No. 13 臺茶十三號 under the name "Cui Yu" 翠玉. Both cultivars went on to make a significant impact on the tea market.
Jin Xuan is cherished for its distinctive varietal fragrance when crafted into oxidized tea—a creamy, milky aroma with subtle hints of mango and pineapple sweetness. Its versatility allows it to be processed into various tea types, including green, white, oolong, and black tea, all of which yield smooth, mellow infusions with minimal astringency. These qualities have made Jin Xuan a favorite among young tea makers. Additionally, its vigorous growth, drought and pest resistance, and ability to be harvested up to four times a year have made it highly popular among tea farmers. Today, Jin Xuan is the most widely cultivated tea variety in Taiwan and has even taken root in tea-growing regions across Southeast Asia, including Thailand and Vietnam.
Cui Yu, though not as versatile as Jin Xuan, shines particularly in the production of PaoChung Tea and lightly oxidized oolong. Its aromatic profile is bold and complex, with notes of wild ginger lily, gardenia, night-blooming cereus, and magnolia. When crafted by skilled tea masters, its fragrance is captivating, infusing the air with layers of floral intensity.
But what about cultivar The Twenty-Eighth?
Though it never officially became part of the Taiwan Tea Series nor received an official varietal name, The Twenty-Eighth still holds a place in the gardens of a few dedicated tea farmers. Its fragrance may not be as striking as Cui Yu’s, but it offers a delicate and refined floral aroma. Its liquor may not be as full-bodied as Jin Xuan’s, but it carries a light, smooth, and refreshing mouthfeel. When made into PaoChung tea, The Twenty-Eighth produces an elegant, silky, and sweet infusion—a rare find in today's tea world, well worth savoring.
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The primary difference between the Twenty-Eighth and the other two (Jin Xuan and Cui Yu) lies in the shape of the leaf blade and tip. The leaves of the Twenty-Eighth are lanceolate with pointed tips, distinctly contrasting with the elliptical leaves and blunt tips of the other two cultivars. Additionally, the Twenty-Eighth can be clearly distinguished from Jin Xuan by its tree shape, bud color, and growth vigor.